Laos in brief
- Luang Prabang, the UNESCO royal town, is the highlight, with Kuang Si Falls and the Pak Ou caves nearby.
- Vang Vieng, Vientiane and Nong Khiaw, the Plain of Jars and the 4,000 Islands fill a longer trip.
- Best from November to February; March to May is hot and hazy, and the rains peak in July and August.
- UK visitors need a visa (e-visa or on arrival). Respect FCDO advice on unexploded ordnance and Xaisomboun.
Laos is South-East Asia at its gentlest: a landlocked country of forested mountains, slow brown rivers and gilded temples, where life still runs to the rhythm of the Mekong. Most visitors fall for Luang Prabang, the UNESCO-listed royal town where monks collect alms at dawn, then add the turquoise pools of Kuang Si Falls, the limestone valley of Vang Vieng, the riverside capital Vientiane and, for the curious, the mysterious Plain of Jars. The new railway has made it far easier to get around, and Laos combines beautifully with Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. This guide covers the best things to do, the slow boat, visas, safety, the weather month by month and sample routes.
Where is Laos?
Laos is the only landlocked country in South-East Asia, bordered by China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar. The Mekong runs the length of the country and forms much of the border with Thailand, and around three-quarters of the land is mountains and forest.
With about 7.5 million people, it’s one of the least crowded countries in the region. Luang Prabang is in the mountainous north, Vientiane, the capital, faces Thailand across the Mekong in the centre, and the south around Pakse is a land of plateaus, waterfalls and river islands.
Laos was the most heavily bombed country per person in history during the Vietnam War era, and unexploded ordnance is still a reality in rural areas. Visiting with a good guide, and staying on cleared paths, keeps you safe; see safety below.
Luang Prabang
Set on a peninsula where the Nam Khan river meets the Mekong, Luang Prabang was the royal capital until 1975 and the whole town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s a place of more than 30 temples, French-colonial shophouses, riverside cafés and early nights.
Things to do: see Wat Xieng Thong, whose sweeping roofs and glass-mosaic Tree of Life make it the finest temple in Laos; visit the Royal Palace Museum and its gilded Haw Pha Bang shrine; climb the 300-odd steps of Mount Phousi for sunset; and browse the evening night market for textiles and paper lanterns.
The alms giving (tak bat): at first light, hundreds of monks walk barefoot through town collecting sticky rice. Watch quietly from across the street, don’t use flash or stand in their way, and only take part if it means something to you, with rice bought from a local family rather than street hawkers.
Around town: take a longtail boat up the Mekong to the Pak Ou caves, filled with thousands of Buddha statues, take a cooking class, or learn about weaving and natural dyes at a crafts centre.
Kuang Si Falls
About 30 km south of Luang Prabang, Kuang Si Falls drops in tiers through the forest into a chain of milky-turquoise limestone pools. You can swim in the lower pools (cover up out of the water, out of respect), walk up a steep path to the top of the main falls, and visit the bear rescue centre at the entrance, which cares for moon bears saved from the wildlife trade. Go early in the morning, before the day-trippers. The water is at its bluest in the dry season; from July to September it can run brown and fast.
The Mekong slow boat
One of the great river journeys of Asia, the slow boat drifts down the Mekong from Huay Xai, on the Thai border opposite Chiang Khong, to Luang Prabang over two days, with a night in the riverside village of Pakbeng. You pass sandbanks, water buffalo, fishing villages and hills of teak and bamboo.
The public boats are simple and can be crowded; a private or small cruise boat is far more comfortable, with lunch on board and stops at villages along the way. It’s the classic way to arrive from northern Thailand, making Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai and Luang Prabang one of the best combinations in the region. Make sure there are life jackets on board.
More places to visit in Laos
Vientiane
A relaxed capital of boulevards, temples and riverside sunsets. See Pha That Luang, the golden stupa that is the national symbol; Wat Si Saket and its thousands of small Buddhas; the Patuxai victory gate; and the COPE visitor centre, a moving introduction to the legacy of unexploded bombs. The concrete sculptures of Buddha Park are 25 km out of town.
Vang Vieng
Once a backpacker party town, Vang Vieng has reinvented itself as an outdoor base among towering limestone karsts. Go kayaking on the Nam Song, explore caves and blue lagoons, take a sunrise hot-air balloon flight, or cycle out through the rice fields. It’s about an hour by train from Vientiane and from Luang Prabang.
Nong Khiaw and the Nam Ou
A small village in a dramatic valley on the Nam Ou, north of Luang Prabang. Hike to viewpoints above the morning mist, take a boat upriver to Muang Ngoi, and visit hill-tribe villages. It’s the place to slow right down.
Champasak and the Bolaven Plateau
Near Pakse, Vat Phou is a pre-Angkorian Khmer temple on a mountainside and a UNESCO site. Up on the cool Bolaven Plateau, coffee farms surround a string of waterfalls. Pakse has the south’s airport.
The Plain of Jars
Around Phonsavan in Xieng Khouang province, thousands of huge stone jars, some 2,000 years old, lie scattered across the hills; no one knows exactly why they were made. Fly from Vientiane rather than drive, visit only the cleared sites and stay on the marked paths: this area was heavily bombed and still has unexploded ordnance.
Si Phan Don: the 4,000 Islands
In the far south the Mekong spreads up to 14 km wide and breaks into countless islands. Cycle around Don Khon, see the thundering Khone Phapheng falls, the largest in South-East Asia by volume, and watch the sun set from a hammock. The islands are close to the Cambodian border, so they work well on a route to Cambodia.
Lao food
Lao food is fresh, herby and fiery, and eaten with sticky rice, rolled into a ball with your fingers and dipped into everything. It’s served in little woven baskets at almost every meal.
Try: laap, the national dish, a salad of minced meat or fish with lime, chilli, mint and toasted rice; tam mak hoong, spicy green papaya salad; or lam, a peppery Luang Prabang stew; khao piak sen, a thick noodle soup for breakfast; grilled Mekong fish; and khao jee, French baguettes filled Lao-style, a legacy of colonial times.
The night markets are the best place to graze. Drink bottled water, and the FCDO warns about methanol in spirits: avoid home-made or unlabelled rice whisky.
Best time to visit Laos
The best time to visit Laos is the cool, dry season from November to February: sunny days around 27°C to 30°C, fresh mornings in the mountains (Phonsavan, at 1,100 m, can drop below 10°C at night), and clear rivers. March to May is the hot season, up to 35°C, with haze from field burning in the north, though April brings Pi Mai, the Lao New Year water festival. The rainy season runs from about May or June to October, peaking in July and August: the countryside is lush and quiet, but some roads flood and Kuang Si runs brown. October ends the Buddhist Lent with boat races and the Boun Ok Phansa festival of lights.
| Month | Luang Prabang | Vientiane | Phonsavan | Pakse |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 27°C · 35 mm | 27°C · 15 mm | 21°C · 25 mm | 30°C · 5 mm |
| Feb | 30°C · 15 mm | 29°C · 15 mm | 24°C · 25 mm | 32°C · 5 mm |
| Mar | 34°C · 35 mm | 33°C · 45 mm | 27°C · 50 mm | 34°C · 25 mm |
| Apr | 34°C · 90 mm | 34°C · 65 mm | 28°C · 105 mm | 34°C · 60 mm |
| May | 34°C · 130 mm | 33°C · 205 mm | 28°C · 145 mm | 33°C · 165 mm |
| Jun | 33°C · 175 mm | 31°C · 265 mm | 27°C · 180 mm | 31°C · 310 mm |
| Jul | 31°C · 300 mm | 31°C · 375 mm | 26°C · 260 mm | 30°C · 520 mm |
| Aug | 30°C · 390 mm | 30°C · 420 mm | 25°C · 350 mm | 30°C · 455 mm |
| Sep | 30°C · 215 mm | 30°C · 335 mm | 25°C · 155 mm | 29°C · 395 mm |
| Oct | 30°C · 90 mm | 30°C · 125 mm | 24°C · 65 mm | 30°C · 185 mm |
| Nov | 29°C · 30 mm | 30°C · 30 mm | 24°C · 30 mm | 30°C · 40 mm |
| Dec | 27°C · 30 mm | 27°C · 5 mm | 21°C · 15 mm | 30°C · 5 mm |
Average daily high and monthly rainfall, 10-year ERA5 data for each area. Phonsavan, on the Plain of Jars, is about 1,100 m above sea level, so it’s much cooler.
Getting there and getting around
From the UK: there are no direct flights. Most people fly to Bangkok, Hanoi or Singapore and connect to Luang Prabang or Vientiane, about 15 to 18 hours in total. Overland, you can cross from Thailand by the Friendship Bridge near Vientiane or the slow boat from Huay Xai, and from Cambodia in the south.
Getting around: the Laos-China Railway has transformed travel: fast trains link Vientiane, Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang, with Vientiane to Luang Prabang taking about two hours instead of a day on mountain roads. Tickets sell out, especially at weekends and holidays, so we book them for you. Domestic flights reach Phonsavan and Pakse. Roads are slow and winding, and we avoid travelling after dark, so we use experienced drivers and plan daylight transfers. River boats remain the most memorable way to travel, between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang, and on the Nam Ou.
Where to stay in Laos
- Luang Prabang, the old-town peninsula to walk everywhere, from boutique shophouses to temple-view villas.
- Luang Prabang, the outskirts for resorts set among rice fields and gardens, a short drive from town.
- Vientiane, the riverside centre near the night market and temples.
- Vang Vieng, by the Nam Song for river and karst views.
- Nong Khiaw for simple riverside bungalows below the cliffs.
- Si Phan Don, Don Khon or Don Det for island stays with hammocks over the Mekong.
- A river cruise on the Mekong, sleeping on board or in riverside lodges.
How long do you need? Sample routes
Laos highlights by train
- Vientiane (2 nights)
- Train to Vang Vieng (2)
- Train to Luang Prabang (4)
The capital, the karsts and the royal town, with Kuang Si and Pak Ou from Luang Prabang.
North to south
- Luang Prabang (4 nights)
- Nong Khiaw (2)
- Vientiane (1)
- Fly to Pakse: Champasak (2)
- Si Phan Don (3)
Mountains, rivers, Khmer temples and the 4,000 Islands.
Thailand and Laos
- Chiang Mai (3 nights)
- Chiang Rai (2)
- Slow boat via Pakbeng (1)
- Luang Prabang (4)
- Vang Vieng (2)
- Vientiane (2)
Northern Thailand, two days on the Mekong and the train south.
Planning a bigger trip? Laos fits neatly into a journey through Indochina: see our Vietnam holiday guide, Cambodia holiday guide and Thailand holiday guide. Luang Prabang to Hanoi or Siem Reap is a short direct flight.
Ways to see Laos with us
Prefer your own pace? A tailor-made Laos holiday can add a private slow boat, a Mekong cruise or extra days in Luang Prabang, and connect easily with Vietnam, Cambodia or Thailand.
Visas, safety and practical tips
- Laos visa: British passport holders need a visa. Apply for an e-visa online at least five days before you travel, or get a visa on arrival at the main airports (including Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Pakse) and many land borders. Tourist visas last 30 days. Your passport must be valid for six months from arrival with two blank pages, and you also fill in the Lao Digital Immigration Form online within three days before arriving. Check the FCDO entry requirements before you go.
- Unexploded ordnance: the FCDO warns that landmines and other unexploded weapons are a hazard throughout Laos. Stick to main routes and marked paths, never pick up metal objects, and only visit cleared sites, especially on the Plain of Jars.
- Travel advice: read the current FCDO Laos advice before you book and again before you travel. Travelling against FCDO advice can invalidate your insurance.
- On the water: boat safety standards vary, so check there are life jackets; tubing and river activities in fast water carry real risks.
- Drugs and drink: Laos has zero tolerance for drug offences, including cannabis. Avoid unlabelled spirits because of the risk of methanol poisoning.
- Money: the kip can’t be exchanged outside Laos. Cards work in larger hotels and restaurants, but carry cash; ATMs are in the main towns. Never leave your passport as a deposit when hiring a motorbike.
- Temples: cover shoulders and knees, take shoes off before entering, and women should not touch monks or hand things to them directly.
Frequently asked questions
Is Laos worth visiting?
Yes. It's the most relaxed country in South-East Asia, with the UNESCO town of Luang Prabang, the Mekong, waterfalls, karst scenery and very friendly people, and it combines easily with Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia.
Do I need a visa for Laos from the UK?
Yes. British passport holders need a visa: apply for an e-visa at least five days ahead, or get a visa on arrival at the main airports and many land borders. Tourist visas last 30 days, and your passport needs six months' validity and two blank pages.
What is the best time to visit Laos?
November to February, when it's dry, sunny and comfortably warm. March to May is very hot and hazy in the north; the rainy season runs from about May or June to October.
How many days do you need in Laos?
Eight nights covers Vientiane, Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang by train. Allow 12 to 14 nights to add Nong Khiaw, the south and the 4,000 Islands, or the slow boat from Thailand.
How long is the Mekong slow boat to Luang Prabang?
Two days from Huay Xai on the Thai border, with an overnight stop in Pakbeng. Private and small cruise boats are much more comfortable than the public boat.
How do you get from Vientiane to Luang Prabang?
By the Laos-China Railway in about two hours, stopping at Vang Vieng on the way. There are also short flights; the road takes most of a day.
Is Laos safe for tourists?
Laos is generally safe and very welcoming. Follow FCDO advice: keep to main routes and marked paths because of unexploded ordnance, avoid road travel after dark, and don't travel to Xaisomboun Province except when essential.
Can you combine Laos with Vietnam, Cambodia or Thailand?
Yes, easily. Luang Prabang has direct flights to Hanoi and Siem Reap, the slow boat links it with northern Thailand, and the south borders Cambodia.
Keep planning
- Laos holidays
- Escorted tours of Laos
- Vietnam holiday guide
- Cambodia holiday guide
- Thailand holiday guide
- Vietnam tours compared
- China holiday guide
- Tailor-made holidays
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