Guatemala in brief
- Antigua Guatemala, the colonial old capital under three volcanoes, is the base for most trips.
- Lake Atitlán for Maya villages by boat; Chichicastenango for the great highland market.
- Tikal, the great Maya city in the Petén jungle, is an hour’s flight from Guatemala City.
- Best from November to April; read our safety tips and the FCDO advice before you go.
Guatemala packs more into a small country than almost anywhere in the Americas. In a fortnight you can walk the cobbled colonial streets of Antigua, ringed by volcanoes; cross Lake Atitlán by boat between Maya villages; bargain in the highland market at Chichicastenango; and climb the temples of Tikal above the rainforest canopy at dawn. More than 40% of Guatemalans are Maya, and their weaving, markets and festivals are part of everyday life rather than a show. This guide covers the regions, things to do, the best time to visit, getting there and around safely, where to stay and itineraries, including Guatemala with Belize.
Where is Guatemala?
Guatemala sits at the top of Central America, with Mexico to the north and west, Belize to the north-east, and Honduras and El Salvador to the south-east. It has a short Caribbean coast and a longer Pacific one, and is a little smaller than England.
A chain of volcanoes runs across the south, more than 30 of them, some still active. The western highlands are cool, green and mostly Maya; the north is the flat, forested Petén, where the great Maya cities were built.
Antigua Guatemala is not the Caribbean island of Antigua: it is the old colonial capital, about an hour from Guatemala City’s airport, and the base for almost every trip. If you were searching for the island, see our Antigua and Barbuda guide.
Regions of Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala
The Spanish capital of Central America until earthquakes in 1773 forced the government out. What was left is a grid of cobbled streets, pastel houses, baroque churches and atmospheric ruins at about 1,500 m, under the Agua, Fuego and Acatenango volcanoes. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.
Lake Atitlán
A huge, deep crater lake at about 1,560 m, with three volcanoes (Atitlán, Tolimán and San Pedro) along its southern shore and a dozen villages reached by boat. Panajachel is the gateway; Santiago Atitlán, San Juan La Laguna and San Marcos each have their own character.
The western highlands
Pine-covered hills, maize fields and market towns. Chichicastenango holds one of the biggest markets in Central America on Thursdays and Sundays; Quetzaltenango (Xela), the second city, is a base for hot springs and villages. Our trips stay in the main highland towns.
Petén and Tikal
A third of the country, mostly lowland forest. The island town of Flores, on Lake Petén Itzá, is the base for Tikal, about an hour’s drive away, and for smaller sites such as Yaxhá and Uaxactún. It’s also an easy overland link to Belize.
Alta Verapaz and Semuc Champey
Wet, green hills of coffee and cardamom farms. Semuc Champey is a natural limestone bridge with turquoise pools on top, near Lanquín. Getting there takes time, so it suits a longer trip, or a route between the highlands and Petén.
The Caribbean coast
The Río Dulce runs through a jungle gorge to Livingston, a Garifuna town reached only by boat. The FCDO asks visitors in Izabal to stay in tourist areas and travel in daylight, so we only arrange it with private boats and guides.
Best things to do in Guatemala
Explore Antigua Guatemala
Antigua is small enough to walk in a day and lovely enough to stay for three. Start in the Parque Central, framed by the cathedral and the arcaded Palace of the Captains General, then walk under the Santa Catalina Arch to the yellow church of La Merced.
Many of the city’s churches and convents were never rebuilt after the 1773 earthquakes. Wander the roofless old cathedral and the cloisters of Las Capuchinas. Climb to the Cerro de la Cruz for the classic view of the town and the Volcán de Agua (go with a guide or in a group).
Nearby you can visit a coffee farm on the volcano slopes or watch weavers at work in the villages.
Cross Lake Atitlán
Lake Atitlán is the most beautiful lake in Central America, and the best way to see it is from the water. Public and private boats link the villages around the shore; mornings are calm, and the wind (the xocomil) usually picks up after lunch.
Santiago Atitlán is the largest Tz’utujil Maya town, where the folk saint Maximón is kept in a different house each year. San Juan La Laguna is known for its weaving and painting co-operatives, and San Marcos for yoga and quiet.
Spend at least two nights here. The lake is about two and a half to three hours by road from Antigua.
Climb the temples of Tikal
Tikal was one of the greatest Maya cities, at its height between about 200 and 900 AD. Its steep temples rise out of the forest of the Tikal National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979 for both its ruins and its wildlife.
The Great Plaza is framed by Temple I (the Temple of the Great Jaguar) and Temple II, with the North Acropolis alongside. From the top of Temple IV, the tallest at about 65 m, the roof combs of the other temples poke up through an unbroken sea of trees.
Go early: the park opens at dawn, the light is best and spider monkeys, howler monkeys, toucans, coatis and ocellated turkeys are most active. Allow a full day with a guide, or stay overnight nearby and see it twice.
More Maya sites: Yaxhá, on a lagoon an hour from Flores, is quieter and lovely at sunset; Uaxactún, a short way north of Tikal, has one of the oldest astronomical complexes in the Maya world.
Shop the highland markets
Each highland village has its own weaving patterns and colours, and you’ll see them on market day. Chichicastenango fills its square with stalls of textiles, masks, flowers, pottery and food on Thursdays and Sundays; on the steps of the church of Santo Tomás, prayer leaders burn copal incense in rituals that mix Maya and Catholic belief.
Sololá, above Lake Atitlán, has a busy local market too. Ask before taking photos of people.
Hike a volcano
Pacaya, about an hour from Antigua, is an easy half-day hike to see old lava flows. Acatenango (3,976 m) is the big one: a tough overnight climb to a camp facing Fuego, one of the most active volcanoes in the world, which often throws up ash and glowing lava after dark.
Before any climb, check the latest bulletins from INSIVUMEH and CONRED, Guatemala’s volcano and disaster agencies: routes close when activity rises. Nights on Acatenango are below freezing, there is no mountain rescue service and the FCDO warns that local organisers can underestimate the risks, so go only with an experienced, licensed guide and proper kit. We don’t recommend the Tajumulco volcano in San Marcos, where the FCDO warns of violent crime.
Festivals
Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week before Easter) in Antigua is one of the great religious festivals of the Americas: huge processions move through the streets over carpets of coloured sawdust, flowers and pine needles made through the night. Rooms book up a year ahead. On 1 November, All Saints’ Day, the towns of Sumpango and Santiago Sacatepéquez near Antigua fly giant kites, some many metres across, in their cemeteries.
Food in Guatemala
Guatemalan food is built on maize, beans and chilli. Breakfast is usually eggs, black beans, fried plantain, fresh cheese and tortillas. Pepián, a rich stew of meat with roasted seeds and chillies, is often called the national dish; kak’ik is a spicy turkey soup from Alta Verapaz.
Street snacks include tostadas with guacamole or pickled cabbage, chuchitos (small tamales) and rellenitos, sweet plantain filled with black beans. Antigua has the best restaurants, and its volcano-grown coffee is superb.
Best time to visit Guatemala
The best time to visit Guatemala is the dry season, November to April, when days in the highlands are sunny and around 23 to 27°C, and nights in Antigua and at Lake Atitlán are cool (around 13 to 15°C, colder higher up). December to February are the clearest months for volcano views and hikes. March and April are the hottest months in Petén, with Tikal in the mid-30s; April is also the month most often asked about, and Antigua is usually warm and dry, though Semana Santa makes it very busy.
The rainy season runs from May to October. Mornings are often bright, with heavy showers in the afternoon; September and October are the wettest months. It’s green and quieter, but some rural roads get muddy and volcano views cloud over. November is a good month to go: the rains are tailing off, the countryside is lush and the kite festivals are on the 1st. Hurricanes are possible from June to November, more often on the Caribbean side.
| Month | Antigua | Lake Atitlán | Flores (Tikal) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | 24°C / 13°C · 10 mm | 23°C / 14°C · 20 mm | 27°C / 19°C · 45 mm |
| Feb | 26°C / 13°C · 10 mm | 24°C / 15°C · 25 mm | 30°C / 20°C · 30 mm |
| Mar | 27°C / 14°C · 30 mm | 24°C / 15°C · 55 mm | 33°C / 21°C · 30 mm |
| Apr | 27°C / 15°C · 75 mm | 24°C / 16°C · 130 mm | 36°C / 23°C · 30 mm |
| May | 25°C / 16°C · 180 mm | 23°C / 17°C · 310 mm | 35°C / 24°C · 110 mm |
| Jun | 24°C / 16°C · 260 mm | 22°C / 17°C · 400 mm | 32°C / 24°C · 215 mm |
| Jul | 25°C / 16°C · 120 mm | 23°C / 17°C · 195 mm | 32°C / 23°C · 120 mm |
| Aug | 25°C / 15°C · 195 mm | 23°C / 17°C · 285 mm | 32°C / 23°C · 185 mm |
| Sep | 24°C / 15°C · 285 mm | 22°C / 17°C · 405 mm | 31°C / 23°C · 240 mm |
| Oct | 23°C / 15°C · 210 mm | 22°C / 17°C · 320 mm | 29°C / 23°C · 190 mm |
| Nov | 23°C / 15°C · 65 mm | 22°C / 16°C · 85 mm | 28°C / 21°C · 125 mm |
| Dec | 24°C / 13°C · 10 mm | 22°C / 15°C · 20 mm | 27°C / 20°C · 80 mm |
Average daily high / low and monthly rainfall, 10-year ERA5 data for each town. Antigua and the lake are at about 1,500 m; Flores is in the lowlands.
How to get to Guatemala from the UK
There are no direct flights from the UK. Most people fly via Madrid, which has direct flights to Guatemala City, or via a US hub such as Miami, Houston or Atlanta (for any US connection you need an ESTA). Total journey times are usually 15 to 18 hours. Guatemala City’s airport is about an hour from Antigua, depending on traffic; we meet you and drive you straight there.
Guatemala and Belize: from Flores it’s about two hours by road to the official border crossing near Melchor de Mencos and on to San Ignacio in Belize, which makes Tikal easy to add to a Belize holiday. Guatemala and Mexico: we suggest flying, or travelling via Belize. Check the FCDO Guatemala travel advice before planning any overland crossing.
Getting around Guatemala
- Private driver and guide: the safest and easiest way to travel. Roads are winding and slow: Antigua to Lake Atitlán takes about two and a half to three hours, and we use the Pan-American Highway route that Guatemala’s tourist assistance service recommends.
- Domestic flights: Guatemala City to Flores takes about an hour, compared with eight to ten hours by road.
- Boats on Lake Atitlán: the simplest way between the lakeside villages, and the FCDO notes they can be a safer option than some lakeside roads.
- Avoid the “chicken buses”, the brightly painted former US school buses: we don’t use them because of accidents and gang attacks.
Where to stay in Guatemala
Antigua: boutique hotels in restored colonial mansions and former convents, set around courtyards and gardens, all within walking distance of the main square.
Lake Atitlán: lakeside hotels and small lodges with gardens down to the water and volcano views. Panajachel is the most practical; the quieter shores need a boat to get anywhere.
Petén: hotels on the island of Flores or around the lake, or simple lodges by Tikal itself, so you can be in the park at dawn.
Guatemala City: only for a night near the airport, if your flights need it.
Guatemala itineraries
Guatemala highlights
- Antigua (3 nights)
- Lake Atitlán (3)
- Flores and Tikal (2)
Colonial Antigua, the lake and Chichicastenango market, then fly to Petén for Tikal.
Volcanoes, lake and jungle
- Antigua (4 nights, with Pacaya or Acatenango)
- Lake Atitlán (3)
- Semuc Champey (2)
- Flores and Tikal (3)
Adds a volcano hike, the pools of Semuc Champey and Yaxhá at sunset.
Guatemala and Belize
- Antigua (3 nights)
- Lake Atitlán (3)
- Flores and Tikal (2)
- Cayo, Belize (2)
- Belize cayes (4)
The Maya highlands and Tikal, then over the border for the jungle and the reef.
Planning a longer trip through the region? Our Mexico holiday guide covers the Yucatan and Chiapas, the Belize holidays page has island and jungle stays, and our Costa Rica guide covers the wildlife further south.
Guatemala tours with us
See all our escorted tours of Guatemala, or ask about a tailor-made Guatemala holiday with private drivers and guides, a domestic flight to Tikal and the hotels that suit you.
Practical tips and safety
- Entry: British visitors can stay up to 90 days without a visa; that 90 days is shared with El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua. Your passport must be valid for at least six months from arrival with two blank pages, and you must complete Guatemala’s online immigration declaration form before you arrive and before you leave. Check the FCDO Guatemala advice before you travel.
- Safety: our trips stay within Antigua, Lake Atitlán, the main highland towns and the tourist areas of Petén. Guatemala has high levels of violent crime and there have been armed robberies on tourist routes, so travel by day with a reputable operator, keep valuables out of sight and use hotel or radio taxis in towns. In Petén and Izabal, stay within the tourist areas.
- Help on the ground: INGUAT’s tourist assistance service, PROATUR, gives route advice and helps visitors in trouble.
- Money: British pounds are hard to change; bring US dollars or use ATMs inside banks and hotels. Cards work in better hotels and restaurants.
- Altitude: Antigua and Atitlán are around 1,500 m and Chichicastenango about 2,000 m: take the first day gently.
- Health: check TravelHealthPro for vaccinations, use insect repellent in the lowlands and drink bottled or filtered water.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best time to visit Guatemala?
November to April, the dry season, with sunny days and cool nights in the highlands. December to February have the clearest volcano views. May to October is the rainy season, usually with afternoon showers; September and October are the wettest months.
Is Antigua Guatemala the same as Antigua in the Caribbean?
No. Antigua Guatemala is a colonial city in the highlands of Guatemala, about an hour from Guatemala City. Antigua in the Caribbean is an island, part of Antigua and Barbuda.
How many days do you need in Guatemala?
Eight nights covers Antigua, Lake Atitlán and Tikal. Twelve to fourteen lets you add a volcano hike, Semuc Champey or a few days in Belize.
How do you get from Antigua to Tikal?
Drive about an hour to Guatemala City airport and fly to Flores, about an hour; Tikal is then about an hour by road. By road all the way takes eight to ten hours.
Is Guatemala safe for tourists?
Crime is high, so most visitors travel with a private driver or reputable operator, move around by day and stay in the main tourist areas. Check the current FCDO Guatemala travel advice before you book and again before you travel.
What is the weather like in Guatemala in April?
Warm and mostly dry. Antigua averages about 27°C by day and 15°C at night; Petén is hot, around 36°C at Tikal. Rain starts to build at the end of the month.
Can you combine Guatemala and Belize?
Yes. Flores and Tikal are about two hours by road from the border with Belize, so a common route is Antigua and Lake Atitlán, then Tikal, then Belize's Cayo District and the cayes.
Do I need a visa for Guatemala?
British passport holders don't need a visa for up to 90 days, shared with El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua. Your passport needs six months' validity from arrival, and you must complete the online immigration declaration form.
Keep planning
- Guatemala holidays
- Escorted tours of Guatemala
- Belize holiday guide
- Belize holidays
- Mexico holiday guide
- Costa Rica holiday guide
- Peru holiday guide
- Where to go in February
- Tailor-made holidays
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