Malawi Holiday Guide: Lilongwe, Blantyre, Likoma Island and Lake Malawi Safaris

Malawi is known as the warm heart of Africa, and the welcome lives up to the name. At its centre is Lake Malawi, a freshwater inland sea with sandy beaches, islands and more species of fish than any other lake on Earth. Add uncrowded safari parks where rhinos, lions and cheetahs have been brought back, the highland walks of Zomba and Mulanje, and an easy link to South Luangwa in Zambia. This guide covers Lilongwe and Blantyre, Likoma Island and the lake, the parks, the seasons and the best routes.

Where to go in Malawi

Lilongwe, Malawi’s capital

Lilongwe has been the capital since 1975, and most international flights land at its airport. It’s a spread-out, green city rather than a sightseeing destination, so most visitors spend one night on arrival or departure. Walk through the busy Old Town market, visit the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre, a rescue sanctuary in a patch of forest, and see the craft stalls for wood carvings. From Lilongwe it’s about two hours to the lake at Senga Bay, and a short flight to South Luangwa in Zambia.

Blantyre and the south

Blantyre, the commercial capital, is Malawi’s oldest city. It was founded by Scottish missionaries in 1876 and named after David Livingstone’s birthplace in South Lanarkshire. See the Church of St Michael and All Angels, built in red brick by missionaries with no training as architects, and Mandala House, the oldest building in the country. Blantyre is the base for the south: the Thyolo tea estates, Majete, Mount Mulanje and the Zomba Plateau.

Lake Malawi and Likoma Island

Africa’s third-largest lake is about 580 km long, with clear fresh water, sandy beaches and mountains on the far shore. It’s home to hundreds of species of brightly coloured cichlid fish found nowhere else.

Cape Maclear: in the south, inside Lake Malawi National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site set up to protect the lake’s fish. Snorkel and kayak among the cichlids around the rocky islands.

Likoma Island: a small Malawian island near the Mozambique shore, with sandy coves, baobabs and the huge St Peter’s Cathedral, built by missionaries in the early 1900s. Reach it by light aircraft or the lake ferry; neighbouring Chizumulu is even quieter.

Nkhata Bay and Senga Bay: relaxed beaches for diving and kayaking in the north, and the nearest beach to Lilongwe in the centre.

The historic Ilala ferry has sailed the lake since 1951, calling at Likoma, Chizumulu and lakeside villages. It’s an adventure rather than a cruise, and timetables can change. Ask us before you plan around it.

Safari in Malawi

Malawi’s parks are a conservation success story. Managed with the charity African Parks, several have had their wildlife brought back, and you’ll share sightings with very few other vehicles.

Liwonde National Park: boat safaris on the Shire River pass hippos, crocodiles and elephants. Black rhino, cheetahs and lions have been reintroduced.

Majete Wildlife Reserve: in the south, near Blantyre. Restocked from scratch, it now has the Big Five.

Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve: about 500 elephants were moved here in one of Africa’s biggest translocations. It’s wild, forested and near the lake.

Nyika Plateau: high, rolling grassland in the north with zebra, roan antelope, orchids and cool nights.

Zomba Plateau and Mount Mulanje

The Zomba Plateau rises above Zomba, the old colonial capital, about an hour from Blantyre. Its pine and cedar forest has waterfalls, trout streams and viewpoints over the plains, and it’s cool enough for long walks. Further south, the granite Mulanje Massif reaches 3,002 metres at Sapitwa, the highest point in south-central Africa. Hikers sleep in mountain huts, and the lower slopes are covered in tea estates.

Malawi and Zambia

Malawi pairs perfectly with South Luangwa, one of Africa’s best parks for leopards and walking safaris. From Lilongwe it’s a short flight or a long day’s drive to Mfuwe. A classic trip spends a week on safari in Zambia and then relaxes on Lake Malawi. Many trips add Victoria Falls too; see our Zimbabwe holiday guide and safari and beach holidays.

When to go

For the parks across the border, from South Luangwa to Victoria Falls, see our Zambia holiday guide.

The best time is the dry season, from May to October. May to August is cooler, green and pleasant on the lake and in the highlands. September and October are best for wildlife, as animals gather at the water, but they’re the hottest months. The rains run from about November to April, when some roads and camps close, though the countryside is lush and the birdlife is excellent.

Classic routes

Ways to see Malawi with us

Most of our Malawi trips are tailor-made, so you can choose the lake, the parks and the pace. Malawi is also part of our longer overland adventures through East and southern Africa.

Overland: Victoria Falls to Kenya via Malawi and Zanzibar28 days · overland

Overland: from the gorillas to Victoria Falls42 days · overland

Practical tips

• Entry: British visitors need a visa, available online from the Malawi Immigration website or on arrival. Your passport must be valid for at least six months after you arrive. You need a yellow fever certificate if you arrive from a country with a yellow fever risk. Check the FCDO Malawi advice before you book.
• Health: malaria is present throughout Malawi, so take advice from your GP or a travel clinic and see TravelHealthPro. Ask too about bilharzia, which is present in parts of the lake.
• Getting around: fuel shortages are common, and roads can be slow. Travel with a driver-guide, and use light aircraft for longer hops such as Likoma or South Luangwa.
• Money: the kwacha is the local currency, but lodges and safaris are usually paid in US dollars. Cards work in larger hotels; carry cash elsewhere.
• Food: try chambo, a lake fish grilled or in a tomato relish, with nsima, the maize porridge eaten at almost every meal.

Frequently asked questions

Keep planning

• Malawi holidays
• Escorted tours through Malawi
• Zambia holidays
• Zimbabwe holiday guide
• Safari and beach holidays
• Tanzania holiday guide
• Mozambique holiday guide
• Tailor-made holidays